Very good article in PDF format.

Taking one for the team

Here is a small audio interview that I give to George Ryals after my win at Vegas this year!

Personally I think it’s far more important that the arrows are tuned to the bow properly than FOC. If they don’t shoot worth a darn at 90m or 70m than it really doesn’t matter how much or little FOC you have in your arrows. There is no simple solution!

I have shot 1400′s with Gold Tip UltraLight arrows as well as Carbon Express Nano’s. I will have to admit it was allot easier to do with the Nano’s than the Gold Tips but it can be done. The only reason I shot these scores is because my arrows were spined to the bow or maybe I should say tuned to the bow. It also help if the archer holding the bow has the ability to put them in the center.

Anything from 8 to 12% is exceptable for FOC.

Dietmar Trillus

Here is an article from Bowhunting World magazine.

bowhunting world.pdf

First off you need a trigger release to do this successfully, I prefer the Truball Short and Sweet S II release with the Buckle strap. This release is by far my favorite trigger I have used to this day. It is a single sear release which is about as simple as it gets. It will feel very light on the trigger if you don’t have any load on it, but at a 60 pound draw with a 65% letoff it loads up quite well and becomes much stiffer at full draw. The more holding weight the stiffer it will get. For my holding weight with back tension at about 18.5 pounds it is perfect for me.

I use a trigger release for a couple of reasons. First reason is because my bad shots are better with the trigger than my bad shot with a hand held, so I can squeeze some extra point out of the shot. I also have fewer bad shot with a trigger than a hand held. I guess that is because I seem to have more control with the trigger than a handheld release, it could be because I am more familiar with a trigger because of my extensive shooting of firearms since I was very young. I find it much easier to let off tension from my index finger when I drift off the target than I do with a hand held release. For me it is an automatic reaction. Shooting a bow has to be a subconscious reaction at best.

I also find with a trigger I am getting better pinpoint accuracy, sort of that thread the needle type of thing. I also have more predictability with the trigger as well. I know it is supposed to be a surprise, well let me tell you about a totally surprise release. The surprise comes in when you see where you actually hit the target. Most if not all the top shooters have a pretty good idea when the shot is going to break and if they really don’t, they probably wouldn’t shoot some of the scores they do. I am by all means not talking about punching here!!!!

At full draw I get into the target and settle in the center and stop the bow. It does not stop long but it will stop and then I initiate the shot. No, not punch but make the shot. If you stand there and want to let it go all by itself, chances are you will be out of the spot before it goes.

I mainly shoot a hook or a thumb button when I practice and shoot the trigger when I am trying for score and shooting tournaments. One of the reasons I do this is I don’t want to get to dependent on the trigger and who knows I might shoot a hook full time one of these days. But not until it will give me the same results as my trigger does. The thumb button and hook are close but I don’t know if they will ever be quite as good. If I had to describe them it would be the difference between a 1380 to 1390 and a 1400.

Before I forget, the title to this post is how to punch your way to a 1400. The answer is you don’t!

Dietmar

P.S. #1

Whether you are shooting a thumb button or a index trigger, they are both triggers and you have to walk a very fine line to use either or to their maximum potential. I guess what I am trying to say is you can punch a thumb button just as easy as a trigger. The trick is how can you use the release without punching it! And that my friend is the secret! The answer is discipline and control! You have to know when you are crossing the line between making the shot and pushing the shot! You have to have a strong will to succeed and get to a certain level of shooting.

That is one of the reasons I change up releases all the time when I practice. One of my favorite practice releases is the Sweet Spot 3 finger Ultra II or the Little Extreme with a talon head. I also really like the HT back tension for Truball as well.

P.S #2

I would have to say SQUEEZE is definitely the wrong word to use or even the wrong way to do it. I would have to say the word I would use is LOAD the release and then pull through the shot like you would any release and it really doesn’t matter what you use then.

For the most part, yes a virtually get the same point of impact with all the releases I use.

In the past I would setup my bows so I could use both styles of releases and it worked pretty good. A little compromise between the two setups in peep height but made it work. Peep would be a bit low with the trigger and a touch high with the hand held’s. Now I set up a bow or two, just for the hand held releases and leave them setup just for training. I have an indoor setup and a FITA setup. My 3D bow is just setup for the hand held release and get some great scores out of it. So when I shoot 3D I am forced to shoot my thumb button or hook.

Yes I find holding weight to be of the upmost importance! I have my bows setup in such a way that they are balanced perfect for me and if the draw and holding weight is not right, the bow either gets front heavy or very loose on the target. In FITA we have a draw weight limitation and it is checked regularly, I have even been pulled off the line and check during competition to make sure I was not over 60 pounds. My bows are balanced at that draw weight so they are slow and stop in the target at draw, but not really to front heavy like some people do.

I have gotten so meticulous with the bow balance from bow to bow to bow I will even machine weights down slightly to get the feel I want or cut the stabilizer by a half inch to get the balance perfect. Silly I know but I am pretty demanding when it comes to setting up a bow.

Here’s one of my theories: There are three things involved in archery. One of which you can totally control if you are smart and the other two you can only hope to control! First are yourself and your emotions and imperfections (nerves and form). This one is one area you will never have control over and if you think you do, you are totally delusional. The second item you have no control over is your shooting environment unless of course you are shooting indoors and that can even be iffy, lighting, people stepping in and out of the line touching you. Outside you are at the mercy of the weather. And last but definitely not least you have your equipment. This you can virtually have total control over and if you are smart you will do that to the best of your ability or even get an expert to do it for you or help you learn to do it.

The 18.5 pounds just happens to be the holding weight of my favorite bow that holds the best for me. Draw length, loop length all have an important part of this feel as well. As I mentioned earlier on I have set up bow for hand held releases only and will short draw them by ½ and inch so they fit me better with those releases. I try to get close to that holding weight but have to shorten the stabilizers so they balance out better.

Dietmar